After picking up our spunky little Fiat 500 in Bologna, we headed toward
Agriturismo La Borgaccia in Baiso, near Modena. This pensione/farm stay is at the top of a hill in Ca'Dorio, a peaceful rural idyll amongst the dormant grapevines that blanket the rolling hills of Emilia Romagna.
 |
| La Borgaccia |
Simona, the owner, welcomed us warmly, and shared the bad news that her husband Mario was in the hospital after falling ill on Christmas Eve. This woman ran the whole show with grace and kindness and incredible talent in the kitchen! More on that to come....but since we were pretty beat, and went to our rooms for a nap...that lasted all night....
 |
| How to get snuggles from your huge, moody teen? Jet lag! |
 |
| Buon giorno |
 |
| Amazing breakfast spread - Simona, the owner, makes her own jam and nutella and bakes everything from scratch |
 |
| View from my room |
 |
| Their cat attached itself to Hart. |
 |
| Hart and kitty hanging out under the pergola. |
After a day in Modena we returned and ate la cena (dinner)
First up was a plate of parmegiano-reggiano, drizzled with aceto balsamico. This is Emilia Romagna in a bite. We were a stone's thrown from the towns of Parma and Reggio-Emilia, making the cheese uber-local. This is also the capital of balsamic vinegar...but this syrup-y, fragrant aceto was a revelation.
Next up were the primi - and Hart and I were blown away. He said it was spectacular, one of the most "well-put-together meals" of his life. His eyes still roll back in his head when I remind him of the rosette - a dish special to Modena, with fresh pasta sheets lined with prosciutto cotto, besciamela, and cheese, rolled into rosettes, and baked. The top is crispy, the pasta is toothsome, and the creamy, cheesy, hammy interior is heaven.
 |
| Rosette and lasagne al ragu |
The lasagne al ragu was also amazing - rich, complex, wine-y bolognese sauce (hello, Bologna is only an hour away), fresh pasta. Just great. But those rosette...just wow.
Hart had prosciutto arrosto with potatoes for his secondo, and I had a delicious herb-y rabbit. Simona served us a beautiful lambrusco that made Riunite seem like soda pop. We were stuffed, but when Simona described dessert, we couldn't resist. Zuppa inglese...literally "English soup," and probably modeled on English trifle. Homemade ladyfingers soaked in
Alchermes, layered with custard and "crema di cioccolato," which tasted like the best chocolate pudding ever.
 |
| Vine wall art with snowflake ornaments. |
The rooms were sparkling clean and very comfortable, and the ducks, geese, and goats were fun to have around. We stayed three nights, and on our last morning, Simona gave us the the great news that Mario would be released from the hospital the day after we left. Even with a personal emergency, she made us feel at home.... I want to go back.
 |
| Truly hope this is not the last time I visit Agriturismo La Borgaccia |
No comments:
Post a Comment